The phrase "Rolex Submariner Krone unten" (Rolex Submariner crown down) doesn't directly refer to a specific model or feature. Instead, it alludes to a characteristic detail found on certain vintage Submariner models: the placement of the crown at the bottom of the case, and more specifically, the unique "two-line" dial found on some of these early examples. This article will delve into the history and significance of the Rolex Submariner's evolution, focusing particularly on the fascinating two-line dial and its place within the broader context of Rolex Submariner history. This exploration will fall under three broad categories: the spectacular dials of the Rolex Submariner, a brief lexicon of Rolex terminology, and a closer look at the influential Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680.
Die spektakulärsten Zifferblätter der Rolex Submariner (The Most Spectacular Dials of the Rolex Submariner):
The Rolex Submariner, since its inception, has boasted a range of dials that are highly sought after by collectors. These dials are not merely functional; they represent a significant part of the watch's history and aesthetic evolution. The two-line dial, often associated with the term "Krone unten" due to its appearance on early models with the crown positioned at the bottom of the case, holds a special place within this collection.
The initial Submariner reference, the 6204, launched in 1953, featured a single-line dial, simply stating "OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER." This minimalist design was functional and robust, reflecting the watch's purpose as a tool for underwater exploration. However, the subsequent introduction of the two-line dial marked a subtle but significant shift. The “two-liner,” as it's affectionately known, added a second line beneath the main text, usually reading "Officially Certified Chronometer." This addition showcased the watch's precision and accuracy, a hallmark of Rolex quality. The positioning of this additional text on the lower half of the dial, combined with the crown's position at the bottom of the case on earlier models, might be the origin of the informal phrase "Krone unten," although this association is not consistently documented.
The evolution of the Submariner dial continued with further refinements. Different variations appeared, including different fonts, markers, and the introduction of the "Swiss Made" marking at the base of the dial. The transition from radium to tritium, and later to luminova, also significantly impacted the appearance and legibility of the dials. Collectors prize these variations for their historical significance and their unique aesthetic qualities. The rarity of certain two-line dial configurations, particularly those with specific features or patinas developed over time, further contributes to their desirability and value. The two-line dial, therefore, isn't just a stylistic element; it's a crucial marker of a specific period in the Submariner's development, a testament to its ongoing evolution and refinement. Understanding these subtle differences is key to appreciating the rich history of the Rolex Submariner.
The spectacular nature of these dials isn't limited to the two-line examples. Later Submariners introduced other striking dial variations, including different colors, materials, and finishes. The iconic matte black dial, the rare gilt dials, and the vibrant red text on some models all contribute to the diverse and compelling landscape of Submariner dials. Each dial tells a story, reflecting the changing tastes and technological advancements of its era. The study of these dials is a fascinating journey through horological history, revealing the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that have always been synonymous with Rolex.
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